What to do in Calvi
At the north-western tip of the island, facing the Côte d’Azur, Calvi is well placed: a Genoese citadel on its promontory, a bay closed off by the Revellata peninsula, a beach of almost 4 km and, behind it, the villages of the Balagne. It is the economic and tourist capital of the Balagne.
The town is best explored on foot. Park down below, at the harbour or in the commercial port car park: the citadel is for residents only. Calvi has two parts:
- the lower town, the marine, a lively shopping area around the harbour that has kept some of its charm;
- the citadel, the upper town, enclosed by its ramparts since the late 15th century.
Photo : SlimMars 13 / Pexels
The citadel, step by step
Some claim that Christopher Columbus was born in the citadel (look out for the ruins labelled ‘house of Christopher Columbus’), but Calvi is not the only town to claim his birth, and nothing settles the question.
After climbing the steps, you reach the citadel gate, topped by the town’s motto: ‘Civitas Calvi semper fidelis’. It recalls Calvi’s loyalty to Genoa during the sieges by French and Turkish troops in 1553 and 1555. In 1794, the town again held out for two months against British and Corsican troops: it was during this siege that Admiral Nelson was wounded and lost the sight of his right eye.
Photo : Tom / Pexels
Once through the gate, turn left, then right as you climb, for the view over the harbour. Down to the left, you can see the tower where salt used to be stored. The climb continues to the highest point, the cathedral.
On the parade ground, the former palace of the Genoese governors is a reminder that the governors twice left Bastia for Calvi. Now the Sampiero barracks, it houses the French Foreign Legion and is not open to visitors. Before going into the cathedral, look left for the view of the Revellata. On the right, a flight of steps runs alongside the ruins known as the house of Christopher Columbus. The ramparts and their three bastions have been listed as a historic monument since 1990: walk all the way round: it is free and the view changes at every corner.
Calvi, a base for the Balagne and Scandola
Calvi’s main asset is its surroundings. From the harbour, boats leave for the Scandola reserve and Girolata, the finest boat trip on the island. By car, the hilltop villages of the Balagne are less than half an hour away, and L’Île-Rousse is 25 km away. Further on, the gulf of Girolata and the calanques of Piana are reached by a slow, scenic road. Navigation, anchoring and fishing are regulated in the Scandola reserve: check the current rules with the Parc naturel régional de Corse (Corsica regional nature park). To combine Calvi with Bastia, Cap Corse or Corte, see our guide to north Corsica.
